“The great Mulanje Mountain can be transformed into a significant contributor to Malawi’s economy if implemented with a system similar to that of Kilimanjaro”

* As it stands now, anyone can climb Mulanje Mountain anytime without the government knowing, and any money generated often goes unaccounted for

* Having hiked Mount Kilimanjaro, I noticed that Mulanje Mountain offers far more breathtaking views than Kilimanjaro

* Yet, Mount Kilimanjaro attracts between 30,000 and 50,000 hikers each year and generates approximately US$50 million, contributing significantly to Tanzania’s economy through tourism

By Duncan Mlanjira

Long before the Malawi tourism authorities launched the campaign dubbed ‘Tiziyamba ndife aMalawi’, that entices the citizenry to be in the forefront to promote tourism at local level, there had been many who have advanced the industry through mountain hiking.

It has since been a phenomenon for hiking enthusiasts to summit the great Mulanje Mountain’s Sapitwa Peak, whose triumph is always shared for all to see on social media in pictures.

To prepare themselves against this very challenging task, these passionate hikers first summit several iconic mountains (in Blantyre being the summits of Ndirande, Michiru, Soche as well as Zomba Plateau.

From the pictures they take as trophies — by the likes of former Cabinet Minister, Ken Lipenga; Emmanuel Maliro; Kondwani Chamwala; Holmes ‘Homuzi’ Banda; David Juma; Darlingtone Ndasauka; Linda Kapanda; Andrew Mtupanyama; Kondwani Kamiyala; Stewart ‘The Cyclist’ Kambewa (and the list is endless) — it is clear Malawi is endowed with beautiful nature.

After their triumphant summiting of Mulanje Mountain, the ambition becomes to climb Tanzania’s and Africa’s iconic Mount Kilimanjaro. Several Malawians have achieved this very sturdy and demanding challenge, that stretches the limits of any experienced hiker.

Journalist Emmanuel Maliro has posted an interesting comparison between Mount Kilimanjaro and Mulanje Mountain, which has invited a healthy debate in as far as marketing Malawi tourism is concerned.

He observed that having hiked Mount Kilimanjaro, he noticed that Mulanje Mountain offers far more breathtaking views; “yet, the Kilimanjaro attracts between 30,000 and 50,000 hikers each year”.

He added that this patronage, through mostly foreign tourists, generates approximately US$50 million that significantly contributes to Tanzania’s economy through tourism.

“This success is largely due to structured systems that enable efficient tracking of hikers and revenue,” goes on Maliro. “For instance, every climber must purchase a permit before climbing, ensuring accurate records of all visitors.

“Additionally, tour operators, guides and porters are licensed and required to report the number of clients they serve. Point-of-entry checks are conducted at designated gates where permits are validated, and climbers are logged.

“This systematic approach provides a clear picture of the mountain’s contribution to Tanzania’s economy,” says Maliro and goes on to ask if Malawi’s tourism authorities know how many climbers visit Mulanje Mountain every year.

“Do we have records of the revenue it generates? If not, how do we expect our natural resources to contribute meaningfully to Malawi’s economy?”

Maliro further observed that officials from the Ministry of Tourism, frequently travel abroad under the pretext of ‘learning from others’ but by now, “they should have learned enough”.

“It’s time to channel that globetrotting money into actionable projects. While we may consider introducing zip lines and cable cars in the future, we can begin with less expensive, impactful projects.”

Maliro offers some advice if the tourism industry can benefit much more from Mulanje Mountain, such as establishing proper entry points at all access routes to the mountain that are equipped with facilities, that include ticketing booths, toilets, and rest areas.

Just as they do at Kilimanjaro and elsewhere, Malawi should also introduce and implement a mandatory permit system for all climbers and track these records digitally to monitor both visitation and revenue.

He also suggests on establishing a mountain museum at the base of the Mulanje “to showcase its history, geology, and biodiversity — this could include cultural artifacts, traditional stories, and educational materials to attract not only climbers but also school groups and tourists interested in history.

“As it stands now, anyone can climb Mulanje Mountain any time without the government knowing, and any money generated often goes unaccounted for.

“By developing proper infrastructure and implementing a system similar to that of Kilimanjaro, we can transform Mulanje Mountain into a significant contributor to Malawi’s economy.”

Immediately, his hiking partner, Holmes Banda responded, describing his proposals as great — but “sadly those empowered and employed to move the industry forward are only keen to keep travelling abroad to keep on learning”.

“They are yet to get to the application stage,” goes on Holmes. “We are one country that enjoys leaving things to chance. The Ministry of Tourism should by now know the major entry and exit points into Mulanje Mountain such as Likhubula, Fort Lister, Lujeri etc.

“These should be designated officially as such (official entry and exit points) with functioning offices where visitors sign in and pay as it is done when you visit game parks across the country.

“Whoever doesn’t use the officially designated entry and exit points should be taken as a trespasser and be fined accordingly. The entry and exit points should have good facilities (toilets, showers, library or museum etc).

“The huts on the mountain too should be improved (solar lights, showers, more mattresses etc) to afford visitors better comfort. Let us invest in these ourselves other than waiting for GIZ to do it for us. Aren’t we ashamed that we wait for a donor to do trails for us?”

Holmes contends that with improved structures, hut fees and other charges would be adjusted upwards accordingly, taking note that a stay at a hut currently costs K2,000 (less than US$1) a night per visitor while a bottle of Carlsberg beer costs K2,500: “If I had my way, my hut fee won’t be less than K4,000.”

Emmanuel agreed with Holmes on the little entry payments asked for to hike Mulanje Mountain, which he indicated is as little as K10,000 (around US$3) “to hike one of the most stunning mountains in Africa”.

“Now compare that to Mount Kilimanjaro, where climbers pay mandatory fees starting at $800 — just to climb — before even adding the costs of guides and porters.

“These fees, imposed by the Kilimanjaro National Park Authority, include conservation fees, camping fees (for routes requiring camping);  hut fees (for the Marangu Route, which uses huts instead of tents); rescue fees, crater camping fees (if camping at Crater Camp); and an 18% value added tax (VAT).

“Altogether, climbing Kilimanjaro can cost anywhere between US$2,000 and US$6,000, depending on the route, duration and level of service offered by tour operators — yes, it’s practically an investment.

“So, why is Kilimanjaro so much more expensive? — it all comes down to the services. On Kilimanjaro, climbers are pampered with well-marked trails, clean and accessible toilets, free internet on the mountain (yes, you can still upload selfies mid-hike!), and exceptional service.

“Emergency preparedness is taken seriously, with guides equipped with oxygen tanks and walkie-talkies — some of our guides don’t even have phones. At Kilimanjaro, they even have professional chefs who provide great meals all the way.

“Now, let’s shift to Mulanje. Despite its immense natural beauty and potential, tourists face a very different experience. Security guards are sometimes the ones that cook, serving mmemo to hikers.

“Imagine an ambassador from Germany, hiking up this majestic mountain, only to be served mmemo! Our guides lack basic emergency equipment like walkie-talkies, and there are no proper latrines along the trails.

Women, in particular, struggle to relieve themselves due to the lack of facilities, creating unnecessary challenges for an otherwise rewarding adventure.

“This raises the million kwacha question: why? Malawi is not a poor country — remember the infamous Cashgate scandal? — it revealed vast sums of money hidden in personal trunks and bank accounts, proving that resources exist but often end up mismanaged or lining private pockets.

“We all saw how quickly mansions sprouted in Area 43, like mushrooms after a rainstorm — that money alone could have built world-class facilities on Mulanje.”

Thus Maliro maintains that if managed properly, “Mulanje could become a premium tourist destination, attracting visitors from around the globe and generating significant revenue.

“Investments in infrastructure, safety, and quality services could transform the experience, elevate Malawi’s reputation, and help us earn the forex we are crying for today. Why let Kilimanjaro take all the glory?”

Andrew Mtupanyama joined the debate by citing an experience he had a couple of years ago when he went hiking with HikeNation colleagues; Kondwani Kamiyala, Arthur Julien, Mayamiko Kakhobwe, Obed Nkhoma and others, to the Way of the Cross on Michiru Mountain in Blantyre.

“On our way up we met a Zimbabwean lady,” he recounts. “During our conversation, she was surprised that she was allowed to visit that place of religious significance for free. She wondered why we should visit such a well managed tourist attraction without contributing towards it maintenance.”

On having a well structured system, Sellina Khumbo Kapondera gave an example of her recent visit to Zanzibar, where she was “impressed with how well structured the tourism industry is in Tanzania”.

“You get to a tour operator who helps you with the activities to do there and possible charges for the activities. They take/introduce you to one activity and find you a tour guide. If an activity requires you visit an Island, the tour guide pays for the boat and the place you are visiting.

“In all this, you as a visitor, pay the tour operator who is responsible for making all the payments throughout the activity. There’s food/fruits in between.

“In all this, I learned that the system is well organised, a number of people benefit from this and the country makes lots of money. Then there is also well organised transport system — I wonder what ‘fails’ us do this in a similar way; anzathu anapita!”

Linda Kapanda joined in to say: “I just wish there was a way Government could take these beautiful ideas on board. The Kilimanjaro hike was a great lesson in many ways. We have the potential, a very big potential, to attract tourists from all over.”

Maliro responded to Sellina Khumbo Kapondera and Linda Kapanda by expounding on what Holmes Banda pointed out, saying “systems that work elsewhere can also be effectively applied here in Malawi”.

“Take, for example, places like Majete and Liwonde National Park; these establishments, which are run by white people, maintain strict controls. No one bypasses the system — everyone must enter through the main gate, pay the required entrance fee and pass through checkpoints along the way.

“This is precisely the kind of structure we need for Mulanje Mountain. Currently, there’s a lack of proper management and accountability. Imagine this, hikers visit the mountain without any record of their activities. Tragically, some have even lost their lives there, yet the government has no information about who these individuals were, where they came from, when they started their hike, or even if they paid any fees.

“Implementing a structured system where every person entering the mountain is registered, their activities documented and fees transparently collected, would solve multiple issues.

“Not only would this enhance safety and provide critical data for emergency situations, but it would also allow us to accurately track the revenue generated by the mountain.

“Such a system would ensure that Mulanje Mountain becomes a well managed and sustainable natural resource for Malawi,” Maliro said.

In 2022, the Ministry of Tourism reported that it was waiting for investors to finalise the plans of introducing cable cars on Mulanje and Zomba mountains as one way of improving tourism services in the country.

Government news agency, MANA quoted spokesperson, Simon Mbvundula as saying they completed pre-feasibility study to establish the cable cars on the two mountains and hinted that Mulanje Mountain is already “a popular tourist destination and there are no worries for investors to accept it”.

Mbvundula maintained that “cable cars are intended to assist in creating job opportunities, increasing tax revenue and levies for the country, promoting a sense of pride among citizens and residence, enhancing Mulanje, Zomba and Malawi profile and bringing infrastructural development and of course spill over benefits to other sectors”.

According to MANA, Mbvundula said the Tourism Department shall provide a marketing strategy to popularise the investment to both local and international tourists.

It’s been many years since the establishment of cable cars on Mulanje was hatched and in her contribution to the debate created by Maliro, Grace Banda Kazembe said: “While we wait for larger, long-term projects like zip lines, which are expensive and require extensive planning, we can start small and capitalise on what we already have.

“Did you know that Zomba is home to some incredibly rare orchids? It’s believed that some of these species can only be found in Zomba and nowhere else in the world.

“Now, imagine if this were a mountain in the USA — they would have heavily marketed this and tourists would be flocking there, and National Geographic would likely be invited to showcase it.

“I know of many people, including billionaires, who travel the globe just to document rare flowers. By promoting these unique orchids, we could attract a niche market of eco-tourists and flower enthusiasts.

“This alone could bring in the much needed foreign exchange for Malawi, while also putting Zomba on the global map as a biodiversity hotspot. It’s a low cost initiative with potentially high rewards for tourism and conservation.”

The debate was well received with Boyka Lipenga describing it as “great observation and thoughtful insight not just raising issues but providing solutions as well”.

“Documentation/record keeping seems to be a major problem in most of the sectors not just the tourism. We should invest in tourism and it’s infrastructures i.e the roads to such sites should be good — a good example is the road to Cape Maclear, [which] at some point, one would think there is nothing at the end of that road.”

Tumalike Mwalubunju explained that he once attended a meeting to promote Mulanje as one of tourist destinations — “it never took us anywhere. There are people who are passionate about that mountain like Kondwani [Chamwala], Dr. Ken Lipenga — but they can’t do it alone! The tourism office doesn’t offer much support the way they should, it’s pathetic.”

To which Maliro agreed, saying there is a “syndrome [that] if you don’t align with what those in control believe in, like political party, no matter how valuable your ideas may be, they are dismissed”.

“You are right, Tumalike, people like Ken Lipenga, Kondwani Chamwala, Yangairo Yangairo, TheBushcamper MW, and others have made efforts, within their capacities, to market the mountain; and while we commend other organisations like GIZ for coming in to help, but the government remains the biggest stakeholder in this industry.

“Building the necessary infrastructure requires significant funding, and that’s where government involvement is crucial.”

Last month of November, after returning from a hike with friends on Mulanje, Holmes Banda posted on his Facebook wall that this great Mountain “offers a world of its own”.

“With its fresh air and water, insane sights and provocative beauty, the mountain is a virgin gem waiting to be explored and enjoyed. Once up there, nearly everything becomes non-existent — fuel and forex shortages, side chicks, the Guinea family man movies, social media, ‘Boma ndi lomweli’ and what have you.

“Two days feels like an hour or less. Well, as they say, whatever goes up must come down, the bonfire, around which shots of adult beverages and wine glasses made sway and saw us till early Sunday morning, died down in perfect self abandonment, as we made our way to our tents.

“Fortunately, unlike the other outing and sleepover at the same beach, no one strayed into a tent that weren’t theirs despite the obvious ravages of inebriety. Two, three hours later, we woke up to the sound of crows as they hoovered above our tents scanning the area for any leftovers.

“Our Chef, hired from Likhubula, would be quick and breakfast was ready by 08h00 so we could have more time to swim and walk around Mloza Pools. It was not possible to start descending around 10h00 as planned — it has never been.

“For a smooth easy hike descent back to Fort Lister, you need approximately 5 hours. It made sense therefore that we started trekking down around 11h45, no regrets but fond memories of total fun and relaxation.

“The weather forecaster had promised rainy afternoons for the weekend but we never had any. I am not surprised at all since my ordination as Priest by the Chief Priest of the Shrine of Namasempwani, Lord Ken Lipenga, the spirits could not allow one of their own to be drenched.

“The downside would be to face again the defaced configuration of Mount Mulanje where locals have taken upon themselves to open mega farms and charcoal burning plants.

“The destruction that we have witnessed around Michiru Mountain has began around Fort Lister. This sulks,” inspiringly wrote Homuzi.

Such is the incredible power of the Great Mulanje which can passionately stimulate to write so beautifully just as the linguist, Lord Ken Lipenga can — even for those who think they can’t compose such good prose so.